Showing posts with label hand tools. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hand tools. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

I need a proper workbench

As I've increased my hand tool work, I've felt increased pain not having a real workbench with proper work holding. Here is a picture of what passes for a workbench in my shop:



I also use a piece of plywood over some sawhorses as a work surface, though I have to be careful with it because it's destined to be some drawers for the workshop storage I recently built:



I also have an old broom maker's workbench that I use as a sharpening and fettling area. I have a grinder,  waterstones, plate glass, and other related things. The workbench has a leg vise on it that I use when I can:



I recently put suede leather on the inside of the jaws of the leg vise, which makes it safe to use for final smooth planing and other detail operations on pieces. But there are no dog holes, no other workholding, and worst of all the bench is prone to wracking and wobbling.

Obviously, none of these work surfaces is close to a real workbench. I was reminded of this yet again about a week ago. I was trying to use my #4 smoothing plane to clean up some molding I'm making. The molding is for a display cabinet and has a couple of beveled edges. Those edges are coplaner, so I ripped one wide bevel on the table saw (yes, I do still use power tools, especially when I fall behind on a project). Before creating the rest of the profile, I decided to use my smoother to plane the somewhat rough edge.

Since I don't have a proper workbench, I had to use an improvised planing stop made with a thin piece of wood fixed to the end of the plywood by two C-clamps. You can see it to the left on the first picture above.

This works pretty well when smoothing the top of a flat piece of stock. And I used it to smooth and scrape the carcass and shelf pieces for the display cabinet. But this setup is prone to problems when planing at an angle. The smoothing plane has a tendency to slid up against the lip on the molding. Once that happens, too much horizontal pressure slides the piece back, rotates it away from the planing stop, or worst of all flips the piece up (sometimes resulting in it flopping onto the floor). In attempting to compensate for this, I found myself holding the knob on my smoother in an uncomfortable and odd grip in order to exert just the right amount of vertical and horizontal pressure. The good news is that I was able to smooth the beveled edges. The bad news is I ended up with two penny-sized blisters on my left hand.

So, I've found new motivation to make the workbench I've been planning for about two years now. I have hardware for a leg vise and a wagon vise (from Benchcrafted). I've built storage elsewhere in my shop so I can get rid of the old kitchen cabinets. I just need to get one other project done (after the display cabinet) and I'll be able to build a workbench.

At my current pace, that means I'll get to the workbench sometime after Christmas, which is ridiculous. Time to get into gear and get some things done.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Blame it on The Schwarz

It all started innocently enough. Years ago, back when my "shop" was still the utility part of the basement filled with as much lawn care equipment (including the mower) as it had woodworking equipment, I bought a couple of Stanley chisels. You know the kind, clear yellow plastic handles with black ends; dull as a post when I got them.

I thought sharpening them meant grinding an edge on them at some (mostly) arbitrary angle and using a coarse oil stone like the one I'd seen my dad use on his lawn mower blade when sharpening it. In the dim recesses of my brain, there were memories of shop class in high school where there had been hand tools, including chisels. And if I'd bothered to think back I'd have remembered those chisels were much sharper than the ones I had. In fact, they were so sharp the shop teacher was careful about letting a bunch of half-wild teenage boys use them for fear we'd chop off a digit or two (for good reason).

Fast forward a few years and I finally managed to evict the mower and all the other lawn and garden tools to the newly built garage. My interest in woodworking was growing and I was funding my tool purchases by tackling home improvement projects that paid for the tools we bought. Drywall on the ceilings meant new trim and that led to a compound miter saw. Building a play set led to some power hand tools. A cedar privacy fence funded the six inch jointer and thickness planer. Rebuilding some of the breakfast room netted a biscuit jointer (my least used power tool) and a more powerful hand drill.

At this point, I was thoroughly reconnected with my junior high and high school woodworking, and was starting to build a shop of tools. I was a dedicated Normite and set out to collect as many power tools as I could, lusting after the twenty or so routers Norm would reveal when pulling open a drawer to pick up the one already set up for his next task. But by this time in the arc of "The New Yankee Workshop", Norm had begun showing bits and pieces of hand tool work in his shows. So I dutifully went and bought a set of paring chisels, some marking tools, and even made a jig or two.

About this time, a friend of mine who is a professional cabinet maker and designer began mentoring me. He had old hand tools on display at his house, and while he was busy showing me the amazing Lionel train layout he was building in his basement, I was learning more about old tools. I thought a hand plane might be useful to do some final fitting of joints and was fascinated by a Yankee screwdriver he had. Almost without knowing what I was doing, I acquired some starter planes and a few other odds and ends (including that Yankee screwdriver).

I'm sure that would have been the end of it. I'd have continued trying to use my dull chisels now and then, wondered how Norm got such good results, and gone back to my power tools and sandpaper in puzzlement. I doubt I would have ever played with those clunker planes I'd bought from my friend as 'starters' for a tool collection (he still insists I'll become an old tool collector).

If only I hadn't taken out a subscription to Popular Woodworking magazine. That's when it really started.

At first, those Schwarz articles on hand tools and hand tool techniques were an odd curiosity thrown in with the articles and ads with power tools of every shape, size, and description. Hand skills didn't hold a candle to a 36" power sander, or a 20" bandsaw. So I continued to acquire shop tools that would fit into my small basement shop. The first (and biggest) purchase was a Unisaw, followed by a band saw and eventually a drill press.

But along the way those hand tool articles were creeping in. I found myself reading "The Workshop Book" and told myself I was just figuring out how to make the most of my small shop space. I subscribed to the Popular Woodworking blog and The Schwarz whispered into my ear more frequently. Then I found myself reading "The Workbench Book". But I didn't have any work holding to speak of and told myself it was for all those hand power tools.

I kept telling myself I could stop any time, even as I acquired water stones and learned how to properly sharpen my chisels and plane blades. All the while The Schwarz was telling me about hand saws, and chisels, and marking knives in words that whispered to me in my dreams. When I found myself slaving over sandpaper on plate glass fettling the bottoms of block planes, I reasoned they were small and I'd already bought them so I'd better not waste the money. Surely it wasn't because of that Schwarz article about fettling (or was it a blog post?). I should have known when I began buying card scrapers and marking gauges that something was up.

Somewhere along the line, the subscriptions to my power tool oriented woodworking magazines lapsed. Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine and Fine Woodworking were all that was left. I knew something fundamental had changed when I realized I was skipping over the power tool articles and ads to read about fleam and rake angles on saws, or oogle a Brese hand plane or a Benchcrafted bench vise. I found myself buying hand tools that cost as much or more than power tools I used to long for. I bought a dictionary of woodworking so I could figure out what Schwarz was talking about when he wrote about "fleam" and "rake" and "winding sticks".

I denied the truth even as I bought Schwarz's workbench book, and "The Handplane Book", and five or ten other hand tool books. I spent hours reading and daydreaming about a Roubo-style workbench, even though I knew it was overkill unless I planned to regularly use hand tools. I pointedly ignored the implications of my copies of "The Art of Joinery" and "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker".

Finally, I couldn't pretend any more. I realized it the day I went up to rave to my wife about how I'd finally gotten a truly good edge on my Stanley #9 1/4 block plane and showed her the see-through shavings it was producing. She humored me and smiled at me in the same way she does when I talk to her about some obscure technical aspect of my day job (computer software). That's when it hit me. I'd become a hand tool woodworker. I struggled with it for a while, then finally admitted it to my woodworking friends and even to my family. They looked at me kind of strange, and my woodworking friends teased me a bit, but that was about it.

Only, it hasn't stopped there.  I knew something fundamental had changed the evening I was driving back to St. Louis from Cincinnati. I'd driven five hours each way and spent money for a hotel just to attend the Lie-Nielson hand tool event held at the offices of F+W Publishing (the publishers of Popular Woodworking Magazine). Then in March I took a weekend workshop from Frank Klausz and was inordinately pleased with the box I built with hand cut dovetails. I was even more pleased with how much I learned from Frank (a truly amazing talent in woodworking). I regularly haunt eBay hand tool auctions. I even squeeze out time for the occasional estate sale, hoping against hope to find a #602 bedrock in a box of "stuff" marked "$30". I recently acquired a Stanely #78 rabbeting plane and just used it to cut rabbets in the sides of a shadow box I'm building for my mother-in-law. I've drug my feet for weeks, not cutting the grooves for the back of the shadow box. I was hoping to snag a Stanley #50 or similar plow plane on eBay at a price I can afford (no luck). I'm signed up for Woodworking in America in October and have mapped out how I can take every single class on hand tools and hand tool techniques being offered.

It's happened. I've become a "Neanderthal" of woodworking. I prefer to use hand tools and will turn to them for all but the worst drudgery (unless I'm terribly late getting that shadow box done and push comes to shove). And if anyone asks me why, I just tell them to blame it on The Schwarz.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Learning Dovetails with Frank Klausz

I'm taking a workshop with Frank Klausz on building a hand-dovetailed jewelry box. The first day was today, and what a day it was. I met Frank for the first time last night at a dinner held by the St. Louis Woodworker's Guild for those attending Frank's workshop this weekend. The dinner was thoroughly enjoyable, and Frank proved to be a wonderful storyteller and just as opinionated as some people who had met him had described.

Today was a whirlwind of learning, lecture, skill building, and work, with the not-so occasional mistake mixed in. Frank was knowledgeable, entertaining, helpful, and demanding throughout. I learned so much I fear I'll forget half of it before it sinks in. Most of all, I learned how hard it is to cut good dovetails by hand, and surprised myself with better results than I'd expected (though still less than I wanted). So far, my box is turning out pretty well, though I fear a couple of my dovetails will have unsightly gaps that can't really be fixed. But Frank was helping some folks with their boxes today by cutting small wedges from mahogany and filling gaps with them. So perhaps my gaps can be repaired as well.

When I came home tonight, I spent almost three hours working on my chisels and plane blades. Over an hour of that time was spent on the blade of the 4 1/2 Bailey plane (WWII era) I bought off of eBay a few weeks ago. What an absolute disaster that bottom of that blade is. Even after an hour of hard effort with waterstones (starting with 220 grit), there are two spots of pitting I couldn't get rid of. One is on the left side about three-quarters of an inch from the edge, so I'm not so worried about that one for now. The other one is right behind the edge and concerns me. I suspect that as I re-grind my primary angle and remove material into that area, the result will be automatic 'nicks' in the edge as the blade is ground into the pitting. I'll ask Frank about it tomorrow and may end up ordering a new blade from Hock Tools.

I also discovered today that a 15000 grit stone produces a wonderful mirror shine on metal. After Frank touched up one of my chisels with his 8000 and 15000 grit stones and it was amazing. I mentioned to him I was unaware of the 15000 grit stones, and he said I could get the same results by building a slurry which included swarf from the blade. With that slurry and a light touch to let the swarf polish the blade, he said I'd do just as well. I tried it when I got home this evening and discovered that there's a reason the 'starter' 8000 grit stone I have was so inexpensive. Now that I've worked my way past the surface of the stone (over the last few years), I've hit an area of the stone that contains much larger pieces of grit than 8000. It took me a while to figure out why I could not longer get a mirror-like polish on the backs of chisels or plane blades, and it was a real let-down. So it looks like I'll be buying an 8000 grit waterstone as soon as I can afford to do so. Unfortunately, the 15000 grit stones are about $50 each, so I'll have to live with 8000 grit for a while.

One of my favorite moments was when someone was asking Frank why we needed to make sure the inside of the tree was face-up on the lid for our jewelry box. Frank had stressed this many times during the day ("The inside of the tree is the outside of the box"). He explained how placing the inside of the tree makes for a better joint if we wanted our work to last a hundred years and not just twenty years. I confess that when he asked if anyone in the room cared if their work lasted a hundred years, I was the only one to say "I do". Maybe I just said it so no one else had to.

I am really looking forward to the second day of the workshop tomorrow. I imagine I'll learn just as much as I did today. And hopefully I won't make any huge mistakes.